Unless every vacation you take involves lying on the beach, theres a lot to be learned while traveling. Many destinations offer the chance for both an escape from the everyday — and a history lesson.

We rounded up some of the most compelling (and popular) destinations for an edu-vacation.

Washington, DC
The nations capital offers up myriad monuments and museums for the interested and casual visitor. Dont miss the exhibits at the Smithsonians 19 museums, the new Martin Luther King, Jr. National Memorial or the chance to see the government at work on Capitol Hill.

Tip: While political candidates are spending millions to earn a stay in Washington, DC, travelers dont need a slush fund to afford this trip. Find the best deals by traveling over weekends and the summer months. If DC hotels are expensive, look across the Potomac at Arlington or Alexandria for deals.

Titanic
The 100th anniversary of the sinking of the RMS Titanic isnt just a reason to see Leo and Kate in 3-D. There are several events focused on this maritime tragedy — including a memorial cruise that features lectures and a nighttime visit to the sinking location. In Northern Ireland, a festival and new museum commemorate the ship, which was built in the shipyards in Belfast.

Civil War Battlefields
Last year marked the 150th anniversary of the beginning of the Civil War, and the National Park Service has a series of events through 2015 to remember this bloody chapter in American history. Walk through the battlefields in the Mid-Atlantic and South, from Gettysburg in Pennsylvania to Manassas in Virginia to Shiloh in Tennessee. Among the notable battles of 1862: Antietam in Maryland, the bloodiest one-day battle in American history. (Its 150th anniversary is Sept. 17.)

Tip: Many of these battlefields are within driving distance of each other. If your plans are pretty solid, look for advance purchase rates at nearby hotels and shop around. Most hotels will offer their lowest rates for bookings seven to 14 days in advance. But buyer beware, these rates are often prepaid and nonrefundable.

Hawaii
Not every educational trip means you need to forgo the beach entirely. The USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor is a short trip from the beaches at Waikiki or can be visited during an extended layover in Honolulu on your way to one of the Hawaiian Islands.

Tip: The best deals in Hawaii can be found in the spring and fall months; prices tend to creep up during summer vacation and over major holidays. The cheapest hotel nights will be found in Honolulu near Waikiki, but give Maui a look for deals as well. Weve noticed several outstanding offers from highly rated resorts in this romantic destination.

Boston
Follow the Freedom Trail through Boston from Faneuil Hall to the Old North Church to the USS Constitution. Along the way, stop in at Omni Parker House — the original home of the Boston cream pie — and probably the only place in America that has employed Ho Chi Minh, Malcolm X and Emeril Lagasse. And, if you can get Red Sox tickets, iconic Fenway Park turns 100 this year.

Tip: Hotel rates spike in the spring when the citys numerous colleges and universities hold graduation ceremonies, but prices moderate somewhat in the summer. Unless you plan on visiting during the winter, June, July and August are your best bets for an affordable Boston hotel room.

San Francisco
Visit the city by the bay to celebrate the 75th birthday of a San Francisco icon: the Golden Gate Bridge opened to traffic May 28, 1937. For other only-in-San Francisco experiences, take the ferry out to Alcatraz to tour The Rock, or ride a cable car through the city to culturally diverse neighborhoods such as Haight-Ashbury, Castro and Chinatown.

Tip: Spring (April-May) and fall (November-December) often offer up the best deals for San Francisco hotels. If you are traveling on a weekend, look in the Financial District, where 4- and 5-star hotels will often go for less than $250 per night.

Riviera Maya Central America
Mayan prophecy posits 2012 as the end of the world. If this turns out to be true, dont you want to have visited some of the Mayan ruins sprinkled throughout Mexico and Central America before the end of days?

Tip: Vacation packagers can often bundle air, hotel and tours together to save up to 30% over do-it-yourself costs. For independent-minded travelers, deals at all-inclusive resorts are plentiful in Cancun and Riviera Maya, and the hotel concierge can recommend a local driver for hire to take you on a tour of ruins in Tulum or nearby.

– Andrew Young is Travelzoos US Web Editor and is based in New York. Travelzoo has 250 deal experts from around the world who rigorously research, evaluate and test thousands of deals to find those with true value.

MEMPHIS, Tenn. Elvis Presley Enterprises has announced a vacation package to Hawaii in conjunction with the 40th anniversary of his concert on the island in 1973.

The getaway Jan. 10-15 will feature concerts, panel discussions and tours of Elvis-related locations in Hawaii.

The concert, Aloha From Hawaii, was broadcast live via satellite around the world. During his movie career, scenes from Blue Hawaii, Girls! Girls! Girls! and Paradise, Hawaiian Style were filmed in Hawaii. Elvis also did several concerts and visited the island many times to relax.

According to Elvis Presley Enterprises, Jan Shepard, the singers co-star in King Creole and Paradise, Hawaiian Style, is to participate in a panel discussion during the event. There also will be an enhanced movie screening of the 1973 concert.

Details are at http://www.elvis.com/aloha .

Each week a nutritionist from the University of Maryland Medical Center will provide a post on nutrition topics for The Baltimore Suns Picture of Health (baltimoresun.com/pictureofhealth). This week, Shanti Lewis weighs in on vacation dining.

How do you eat healthfully and maintain your weight when you have long flights ahead and eat out almost every night while on vacation? Because of the limited fare on flights, many travelers indulge in fast food and choose beverages that can be dehydrating before boarding their planes. Remember these tips for your next trip.

Illinois legislators have embarked on a two-week vacation. It would be easy, and a certain amount of fun, to make light of this “recess.” We could cite how little the General Assembly has accomplished so far this year and how taking a two-week break in the current financial crisis doesn’t make a lot of sense.

But that’s not what we’re going to do.

Instead, we’re asking taxpayers to take advantage of this two-week break to make it clear to their elected officials that they are expected to significantly address two critical issues in the coming weeks.

Medicaid and pension reform.

Gov. Pat Quinn has correctly made Medicaid and pension reform his mantra this spring. He’s right that if the state is going to have its “rendezvous with reality,” those two areas will have to be addressed.

The reasons are simple. Twenty cents of every dollar the state spends in next fiscal year will go to pension costs. Even more will go to Medicaid costs, which now covers more than 20 percent of the state’s population.

The state’s unpaid bills total about $8 billion and that number is likely to increase in coming years. The Civic Federation of Chicago has estimated that total will increase to $35 billion in five years. Much of those unpaid bills are related to Medicaid costs.

It’s clear that something has to be done. The state is debating cutting other expenses, such as funds that go to social service agencies, education and safety. Those are noble efforts, but won’t mean much unless Medicaid and pensions are addressed in a major way.

Even though the solution is clear, some legislators are already suggesting that the reform bills be put on hold until after the Nov. 6 election. That way, legislators figure, they won’t have to take votes that will anger some of their constituents before the election. The danger in that course of action — we’ve been down this path before — is that nothing will be done.

If the Medicaid and pension reform issues aren’t addressed in a significant matter this spring, two events are virtually guaranteed to happen. First, the 67 percent income tax increase will become permanent. Second, the budget cutting for social service, education, safety and other state services will become more severe.

Here’s what you, the taxpayer and voter, can do during this legislative “recess.” Contact your representative and senator and make clear to them that you will not be supporting them in November unless there are significant reforms in Medicaid and pensions. Many of these elected officials will be in our communities during this two-week break. Don’t hesitate to tell them you have expectations and failure to meet those expectations will mean a lack of support in November.

There are a host of special interest groups that will try to reduce the impact of Medicaid and pension reforms on their groups.

Legislators need to hear, loud and clear, that voters understand the need for reform and will support those politicians who accomplish something meaningful this spring.

We invited Senator Roz Baker to comment on the ongoing controversy over the proposed vacation rental bills that have upset some property owners.  Senator Baker was personally identified in the previously published LETTER: Condo Owner Objects to Vacation Rental Bills.

When you consider the sheer number of awards they give out in this town, they should just give you one at the airport when you arrive, says Jon Cryer of Two and a Half Men.

This first week of January 2012, I was sitting at the southernmost part of the United States, the Baja California peninsula, looking out over the rocks where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific Ocean.

People were kayaking, scuba-diving, fly-fishing, body surfing, and whale-watching in large numbers. The golf courses dotted green alongside the ultimate desert on one side and the huge ocean on the other and both were being well used. On the way to whale-watching, we were shown a number of fabled houses with views that were said to belong to that number one Yankee and sometimes visitor George Clooney.

I am usually skeptical of tourist attractions but when my group went whale-watching, we came upon several boats full of photographing visitors. At least five minutes passed before we were greeted by mama and baby grey whales, jumping, cavorting, flapping their tails and diving for our benefit. After they eat their fill, tis said they travel back up toward Alaska, though I can hardly believe it. Who would leave Cabo for the icy north?

It was Christmas holiday week-into-New Years at the Oneamp;Only Palmilla resort in Los Cabos — one of the guaranteed parts of Mexico where crime, drug dealers and deadbeats do not encroach. The nearby little town of San Jose del Cabo is charming in its blatant tourism; picturesque in its omnipresent police force; and the local airport is stacked with private planes coming down from Canada and the east and west coasts of California. I am told you have to book here for the entire week this time of year; theres no such thing as three or four days. And if you care about such things, there are lots of organic vegetables grown in and around Cabo, which is where organic tomatoes are coming from, pouring into the United States and lowering the local Cabo water table, according to The New York Times.

At breakfast on a terrace overlooking the sea, I sat near my old moviemaker pal Jeffrey Katzenberg. He was deep in pre-production plans with another guy so I didnt bother him. But everybody there looked like a Hollywood celebrity. Some were.

So, it was a shock to my nervous system to land at Newark Airport after midnight the same day. From a desert full of cacti and mesquite to a frigid, deserted aspect of New Jerseys cavernous airport; well, it was frigid and chilling. There was only one employee unloading luggage as we waited.

But as a lucky one-of-the-invited to Cabo, I urge you to go there — whether you can afford Palmilla or not. There are plenty of other nice inns, hotels and places to stay and your hosts are hardworking, charming people who will make sure you have a wonderful time.

Glamour magazine paid me sometime back to write 30 Things Every Woman Should Have and Should Know by the Time Shes 30 — or words to that effect. They say now that my deathless ideas will appear in a 2012 book to be published by Hyperion.

So, I thought I might share some of this again with you:

ASSUME YOU CANT TRUST ANYONE WHOS JUST HANDED YOU A CONTRACT

Liz: Ive done well for myself over the years, but I would have done better if Id paid more attention to the fine print on every contract I signed. Get legal advice before you sign anything.

LIFES JUST TOO SHORT TO TAKE EVERY LITTLE BETRAYAL PERSONALLY

Liz: Over the years, Ive been attacked by a few people who took offense at things I wrote in my column. And I have attacked back. But down the line, I regretted even bothering. Its a lot of baggage to collect enemies. Its very debilitating and disempowering. So, I finally decided it was just better to turn the other cheek.

THERE ARE NO REAL SECRETS, SO YOU MIGHT AS WELL TELL THE TRUTH ABOUT THINGS

Liz: You dont have to over-share all the gory details, but in the information age, truth telling is the biggest time and energy saver I can think of! I dont have any secrets anymore myself — not since I published a memoir. … My philosophy is: Set everything down for the record once and only once. Then move on, make some new stories. Whats next?

WHEN IT COMES TO ROMANCE, HEED THESE WORDS: TRUST BUT VERIFY

Liz: Im not saying you should be cynical about relationships; its no fun to go around expecting the worst. But young women are prone to rushing into love, suspending judgment on guys theyre dating. I know I did. Ive been married and divorced twice, so Ive been guilty of projecting all kinds of romantic qualities onto men whether they had them or not.

Follow your heart? Forgive me, but thats the myth of all myths. You should research the man youre with as thoroughly as youd research which car to buy. What do other people say about him? Whats his track record? Be aware of what your situation with him really is instead of what you just hope it will be.

(E-mail Liz Smith at MES3838@aol.com, or write to her c/o Tribune Media Services, 2225 Kenmore Ave., Suite 114, Buffalo, NY 14207.)

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For fashionable travelers, its resort season, a time for some rest and relaxation — and a matching wardrobe of comfortable, stylish clothing and accessories.

Designers are happy to accommodate with bright and bold colors, as well as floral and fun patterns, which will add a little zip to that cruise, tropical island visit or beach vacation.

Bright colors are a sure-fire way to lift your mood, but I also think resort collections have a dreaminess about them, says Project Accessorys Eva Jeanbart-Lorenzotti. They almost always have you planning your next vacation or weekend getaway. Resort is also the best excuse to get a head start on revamping your spring wardrobe. And because its a narrow season and sells out quickly, you can usually stock up on items that not many other women will have.

There is a certain part of society that considers resort a third collection to go with spring-summer and fall-winter, says Soo Buchanan, founder and president of Buchanan and Zavala. This is the first time she has designed a resort collection for Neiman Marcus online.

Color schemes contain bright oranges and fluorescent pinks. Most of the fabrics in her resort line are knits, Buchanan says, and are created from scratch using Italian yarn.

What is nice about knit is, it is comfortable, and it travels well, Buchanan says. The collection is sophisticated, stylish, yet simple, and comfortable for a womans fast-paced lifestyle. The base hue is a modern version of beige.

Everything from handbags to shoes will have some color this resort season. Shoe designer Anyi Lu says her resort footwear line is inspired by the stylish, colorful flavors of Tuscany with shoes that embody simple, yet exquisite living.

We are finding women want shoes that combine comfort and style, Lu says. And they want a shoe or sandal such as a linen-textured leather in a warm coral hue, with a woven leather at the sling and wedge.

People and designers are playfully pairing prints, textures and colors that, a couple of seasons ago, would have been considered clashing — to beautiful effect, she says.

Vera Bradley is introducing a limited resort line on Feb. 23 that includes totes, beach towels, sandals and a sarong.

Many Vera Bradley fans enjoy taking our Vera bag to resorts, as it is the perfect size to hold a beach towel, sun hat, sunscreen and many beach and pool essentials, says Melissa Schenkel, public relations manager for Vera Bradley. Colorful Vera Bradley bags are like a little piece of sunshine in the harsh winter months.

Tangerine will be a popular shade this year, along with orange and shocking pinks, Jeanbart-Lorenzotti says.

I always think a Bohemian look is fun for resort, since it exudes a more casual and playful feel, and I like to incorporate interesting and ethnic-inspired accessories, Jeanbart-Lorenzotti says. There are two different handbags that work well for resort. The first is a raffia clutch, which is great, since it will work for day or night and is very versatile. The other is a fantastic tote bag.

Resort season offers a different perspective from spring-summer, fall-winter collections. It offers that first spark of escape.

What is exciting for our brand is longevity and continued freshness of a nautical look thats strength through this resort season is still very prevalent, says Sarah Hand, Nautica womens designer.

Hand has found that customers are looking for lighter weights, spring colors and even shorts. Brighter colors and fun resort product adds a levity to ones travel wardrobe, Hand says. There is an element of refreshment after wearing darks all winter.

The Tommy Bahama collection mixes bright colors, lightweight fabrics and a play of patterns in a carefree style. Its sportswear comes in a warm palette of magenta, purple, aqua and orange, evoking a Moroccan market — rich in color and texture. A washed, striated sweater in sun-drenched brights is the seasons go-to look; wear it with a skirt, capris or shorts. From day to evening, an ankle-length tank dress in taupe needs nothing more than a quick change of accessories.

I believe that resort wear inspires the idea of vacation and, after the cold winter months being bundled up, the idea of a warm climate and a vacation is inspiring, says Red Carter, designer of Red Carter swimwear. After months of wearing black, gray and burgundy, we are finally given the opportunity to feel bright and fresh even if it means we have to show off some skin. New Years resolution: Prepare to show skin.

This seasons resort swimwear will be full of bright colors and photographic prints, Carter says. Ruffles are flirty and hot. Black-and-white graphic prints are a good way to start off spring, especially if mixed with neon accents like yellow citrine.

Cover-ups are a great way to maximize your wardrobe.

A good cover-up can take you from spring to summer and be versatile enough to take you from the pool to the lounge. Dont be afraid to make a statement with a bright color, bold shape or amazing trim detail. I love anything nautical-inspired; this trend is perennial and never goes out of style, whether it be a bold navy and white stripe or a navy caftan with some amazing gold hardware, Carter says.

Resort wear makes a woman happy because it creates the image of or idea of warm weather, vacation and relaxation, says Stacy Josloff, designer of Inca.

She says chiffon leopard prints for this season are the perfect bathing suit cover-up but can function as a great tunic or little dress for any occasion. Because resort season is such a short window of time, she says designers try to offer items that can fit into your regular wardrobe.

Canadian golfer Stephen Ames picked the right time to vacation in Hawaii.

Ames, of Calgary, has been selected as a last-minute replacement for the Hyundai Tournament of Champions in Maui after Lucas Glover had to withdraw after what’s being described by the PGA Tour’s website as a “freak aquatic accident.”

Glover, the 2009 US Open winner, injured his knee while paddleboarding on the weekend and had to withdraw from the event.

To qualify for the tournament, golfers need to have won a PGA Tour event the previous season, but with Glover’s late withdrawal and Ames’ availability, the Canadian will get to tee off Friday at Plantation Course despite not placing first at an event in 2011.

The event is the first of the season on the PGA Tour and has a $5.6 million US purse, with a winner’s share of $1.12 million.

Ames, who has four career PGA Tour wins, cracked the top-10 twice last year and had a season-best third-place finish at the Puerto Rico Open in March. His best result at the Tournament of Champions was third in 2008. He last played in the event in 2010.

Staff meals, restaurants on January vacation the problem with asking restaurants to cut down on salt.

An article in the Atlantic says that attempts by the Food and Drug Administration to coerce restaurants to cut down on salt are misguided at best. Restaurant meals account for a small amount of daily salt intake, says the articles author, an interventional cardiologist and professional chef. Its a good, provocative read.

Bryan Voltaggio expains why one particular tattoo keeps getting him dirty looks from the Transportation Safety Authority (Eater DC)

Arguably the most glamorous of Hawaii?s islands, Maui is home to some of the state?s swankiest resorts and acclaimed restaurants. It?s a favorite with visitors in search of lazy beach naps, leisurely laps in the pool and soothing spa treatments. But don?t let the island?s cushy reputation fool you into thinking it lacks history, culture, and an impressive variety of rugged outdoor adventures. Maui vacations can be as unhurried or as thrilling as you choose.

Home to the largest gay and lesbian resort in Hawaii (the Maui Sunseeker) as well as dozens of welcoming Bamp;Bs, inns, condos and full-service resorts, Maui is often the first island visitors experience after Oahu. Although lacking Honolulu?s nightlife, this easy-going, moderately developed island is well suited to couples, families and groups of friends.

Plenty of visitors stay at one resort and visit Maui for five to seven days. But if you?re hoping to get to know the island?s diverse elements, split your time among two or three areas, and spend at least 10 days, perhaps tacking on a day or two on the quiet, underrated, and remarkable neighbor islands of Lanai and Molokai.

Maui

Geographically made up of two soaring volcanic peaks connected by a largely agricultural valley, Maui (www.gohawaii.com/maui) is the second largest of the Hawaiian islands, home to about 145,000 permanent residents. The majority of the 2.5 million visitors who arrive annual stay on the sunny and comparatively arid leeward coasts of Maui?s two halves, which include the historic fishing port of Lahaina, the modern Kaanapali and Kapalua resort areas, the ritzy Wailea resorts, and the more reasonably priced town of Kihei.

You?ll find a good mix of mid-priced to high-end resorts up around Kaanapali and Kapalua ? good picks include the Hyatt Regency (maui.hyatt.com), Westin Maui (www.westinmaui.com), Outrigger Maui Eldorado (www.outrigger.com), and Ritz-Carlton Kapalua (www.ritzcarlton.com).

In Wailea, which is close to the famously gay-popular clothing-optional Little Beach at Makena, you?ll find such sumptuous accommodations as the Four Seasons Maui (www.fourseasons.com/maui), Grand Wailea (www.grandwailea.com), and Fairmont Kea Lani (www.fairmont.com/kealani). Just a few miles north, Kihei contains several gay-oriented lodging, including the aforementioned Maui Sunseeker (www.mauisunseeker.com), a stylishish boutique resort catering mostly to gay men and lesbians. Other good GLBT bets in Kihei include the elegant Pineapple Inn (www.pineappleinnmaui.com) and the affordable, whimsically furnished Two Mermaids (www.twomermaids.com).

Strike out beyond Maui?s leeward shores to discover some of the most diverse and dramatic scenery in all of Hawaii, including the Upcountry, situated along the slopes of 10,023-foot Mt. Haleakala, and home to the quirky ranching and farming towns of Kula and Makawao. Be sure to budget a few hours to drive to the peak of Haleakala?s summit, which lies within the national park of the same name

Along the breezy windward coast, you can drive the famously curvy and narrow road to Hana, which passes through verdant rainforests and beside gushing waterfalls. Return by way of the rugged Piilani Highway from Hana around West Maui?s ?back side,? and the road hugs sheer sea cliffs and cuts across sweeping plains strewn with jagged lava-rock formations. If at all possible, plan for an overnight in Hana. Here you can stay at the historic, unpretentious, and wonderfully charming Travaasa Hana Hotel (www.travaasa.com/hana) ? if it?s a special occasion, splurge for a room in this boutique resort?s secluded, adult-oriented Sea Cottages section. You?ll also find a handful of Bamp;Bs in this laid-back village blessed with spectacular beaches, including the affordable, gay-owned Hana Accommodations (www.hana-maui.com).

Even Maui?s main untouristy administrative center and county seat, Wailuku, has a cool historical museum, the Bailey House; and some great little hole-in-the-wall restaurants (Tiffany?s, Tokyo Tei, Ba-Le Sandwiches); and it?s the gateway to the breathtaking Iao Valley. For an insider?s perspective on local dining, book a half-day trip through Tour da Food, whose knowledgeable guides Bonnie and Jill lead delicious culinary tours in Wailuku and Upcountry Maui.

Maui has several businesses with strong GLBT ties. You can book a massage, either in your hotel room or at a lovely on-site studio overlooking the ocean, from Relax Therapeutic Massage, whose owner Marty Guerriero is one of the most talented massage therapists on the island. Gay-owned No Ka Oi Adventures leads exceptionally fun and engaging custom half- and full-day tours around Maui ? including trips around West Maui, along the road to Hana, and snorkeling off of Makena?s lava-fringed shores. Acclaimed local Chef Raja, who competed on TV?s ?Extreme Chef? in 2011, is your go-to for planning a romantic meal or small dinner party. He?s especially popular with those planning gay weddings or commitment ceremonies. On that note, Hawaii?s new same-sex civil union law went into effect on January 1, 2012, and long-running Gay Hawaii Wedding can help couples plan their nuptials on Maui.

The island abounds with terrific restaurants, many of them at the big resorts, such as Ko at Fairmont Kea Lani, Spago at the Four Seasons, and Gannon?s at Grand Wailea. Locally renowned chef Peter Merriman?s hip Monkeypod Kitchen, in a shopping center at the Wailea Resort, is one of the hottest new spots on the island, as is Star Noodle, the stylish Pan-Asian eatery up in Lahaina, which is also home to the first-rate Lahaina Grill and I?o Restaurant. A few other culinary highlights on Maui include Market Fresh Bistro in Makawao, Cafe Mambo in Paia, and Izakaya Matsu in Kihei. For nightlife, the sophisticated but friendly Ambrosia lounge is popular with GLBT patrons, especially on Sunday nights.

Lanai

The gently sloping, conical island of Lanai (www.gohawaii.com/lanai) is clearly visible from the western shores of Maui, especially from Kaanapali and Lahaina ? passenger ferries run regularly from the pier in Lahaina to Lanai, and the island also has regularly scheduled flights from Maui and Oahu. Just 140 square miles, this is the smallest of Hawaii?s primary islands, and historically it was known for its massive pineapple plantation industry.

Although it?s still a low-keyed, mostly undeveloped island, Lanai has become increasingly popular with jetsetters thanks to its pair of stunning Four Seasons resorts, the historic Lodge at Koele (www.fourseasons.com/koele), which is nestled beneath groves of Cook pine trees in the cool upcountry, and the seaside Manele Bay Hotel (www.fourseasons.com/manelebay), which fringes spectacular beaches and is renowned for snorkeling, golf, spa treatments, and relaxation.

Take some time to stroll around tiny Lanai City, which has a few intriguing galleries and shops and is also home to a less pricey and quite special boutique inn and restaurant, the Hotel Lanai (www.hotellanai.com).

Molokai

Although it?s significantly larger than Lanai (about a third the size of Maui), the tranquil island of Molokai (www.gohawaii.com/Molokai) receives very few visitors and is sparsely populated, with just 7,400 residents. But it?s also home to one of the most remarkable cultural attractions in the country, the colony of Kalaupapa, a peninsula physically cut off from the rest of Molokai by a wall of sheer sea cliffs, among the highest in the world. Hawaiians afflicted with Hansen?s Disease (leprosy) were tragically exiled to Kalaupapa from the 1860s through the 1960s. Although a handful of survivors still reside in this community, much of it is now a national historic site, and visitors can tour the two villages. The exciting part is getting there: you must either hike or ride mules down (and later back up) a daunting, 1,700-foot trail of muddy steps and switchbacks.

Even beyond Kalaupapa, Molokai is rich in spectacular scenery. There?s a scenic drive around the eastern half of the island, from which trails lead into the stunning Halawa Valley. And on the island?s dry, sunny western side, you?ll find some beautiful beaches. The airport in Molokai is served by several flights a day from neighbor islands. Once you get here, it?s best to rent a car, as distances are considerable.

The island has just one major hotel, the very gay-welcoming Aqua Hotel Molokai (www.hotelmolokai.com/), a fairly basic complex of ?70s A-frame bungalows, although the rooms have been comfortably updated. The hotel is also home to one of the only full-service restaurants on the island, an open-air space overlooking the small beach. The Hotel Molokai acts as one of the island?s main social hubs, as there?s live music in the evening. The easy pace and friendly mix of locals and visitors makes for a striking contrast with hotels on the other islands.

Elsewhere, your best bets for dining are Kamuela Cookhouse, which serves up tasty grilled seafood and prime rib, and Molokai Drive-in for burgers. The Molokai Coffee Plantation serves rich and robust brews using beans grown on the island. And for breakfast or lunch, don?t miss Kanemitsu Bakery. Each evening, after the bakery has officially closed, hungry diners line up at a takeout window in the back alley to procure ?hot bread.? The disturbingly enormous loaves of chewy, rich bread are doused with butter, cinnamon, jams, and other toppings. It?s the sort of offbeat tradition that captures Molokai?s quirky, small-town vibe.

Andrew Collins covers gay travel for the New York Times-owned website GayTravel.About.com and is the author of Fodor?s Gay Guide to the USA. He can be reached at OutofTown@qsyndicate.com.